Saturday 22 May 2010

Pleas resume your seats, act two is about to begin.

I hope you have all enjoyed your break. Put some eyedrops in and generally gotten over my waffle for another go.

So I will attempt to put in Scotland down to Chatsworth in this one. (8th May to 14th May)

We got off the ferry at Stranraer and picked up our little Corsa, and off we went along the coast. (I must say that the ferries were both fantastic. Such a relaxing way to travel really. No stupid airport security, nice lounges instead of train or bus seats, restaurants, shops and bars on the boat. Very nice indeed.) Scotland is very Bonnie. I was a wreck by the time we got into our hostel and had a stomach flu type thing (joy!) so our first full day we did nothing at all but sit in the lounge over looking loch Lomand and took a short stroll along the banks. The hostel is sitting directly on the shore. Postcard perfect.


We left gorgeous Loch Lomand and headed across to Stirling and Doune. Doune Castle is where they filmed lots of Monty Pythong and the Holy Grail. They had a great little audio guide that was done by Terry Jones so it was good fun. I had to get a photo in the little divet the Pythons stood in the great hall to sing knights of the round table. And there were actually 2 swallows flying around the castle. Hilarious. Plus interesting on the historical side. Doune was strategically important - hence a castle was required. We managed to spot a weasel or otter or ferret type thing running across a field. Then we nipped over to Stirling and had a look at Stirling Castle, which is up a cliff basically. It was 9 freaking pounds to get in, so mum shouted me because I refused to pay 9 pound. We did get to see historical recreation type thing which was quite cute, even if I am not the biggest fan, but Scottish accents are nice and it was a bit of colour and movement. Then on the way to Grasmere we stopped at Hadrians Wall. I wasn't in the best of moods so wasn't overly impressed (again, this was to become a theme, ancient historic sites just don't float my boat) cute sheep though.

When we finally got to Grasmere we were greeted by our gorgeous hostel but also my less gorgeous stomach bug, fun night that was. We had a quiet day the next day - went down by the lake, froze, discovered it had SNOWED the night before up the hills - until I could go to the doctor. 'Winter vomitting virus' oh fun. Nothing you can do, should go away in a few days. So the next day I soldiered on up to Hawkshead, the Beatrix Potter Gallery and Hill Top. Oh, stopping at the Grasmere Gingerbread shop first... yummy yummy yummy. The gallery was really good, it had lots of her original watercolours on display. Hill Top was really interesting - you can see backgrounds of many of her books throughout the house, it was one place that even though it was full of tourists you could get a sense of the importance of the place and how much it influenced her paintings. We moved on to Windermere to stay for two nights and I got a double bed. Bliss. It is in a place called 'Troutbeck' and was up the hill looking over Lake Windermere. Absolutely stunning views. The day after that I decided I wanted to go for a walk, so we went an investigated Kendall (where we would stay the night) and then went back to Hawkshead - this time via ferry) and set out on a 6km "walk". Hike was more accurate. Up and down hills, over fences, rocks... we were bloody knackered by the time we finished but it was good. so it was back to Kendal and off to bed.

The following day we attempted to have a hot chocolate at the 'Famous 1657 Chocolate House" but they weren't opened, despite their sign saying they were so we thought bugger them. So we set off for the Peak District, via Lyme Park. Lyme Park was used in the BBC mini series of Pride and Prejudice as Pemberley. It was very pretty. All the gardens were perfectly manicured. We didn't get to go in the house but the grounds were lovely. The Orangery was particularly specky. We hiked all around to see the fallow and red deer which were very beautiful and I finally got a photo of a pheasant. Then we headed on to our posh night's accommodation - Heathy Lea B&B on the Chatsworth estate!! It was ever so nice. Comfy beds, feathery doonas, fluffy towels, tea, biscuits, nice handwash and moisturiser. Bliss. Wish we had stayed longer. But after a lovely night's sleep it was up for our amazing breakfast - seriously, this place had at least 10 different types of muesli. Plus all the regular cereals. I didn't know so much muesli could exist. There was a gorgeous home made fruit compote and then yummy yummy yummy bacon, egg, tomato, a WHOLE portabello mushroom and sausage (not that I am a fan of sausage at breakfast time) all set out on the cutest little table with homemade jams and REAL proper plunger coffee (he gave us an 8 cup plunger... sadly even I couldn't get through all that coffee.)The guy running it is actually the owner's nephew in law. They had gone on holiday so he was looking after the B&B with his wife. Nice bloody job! He was lovely and very helpful, he was from Southampton so told us some nice places to check out down South.

Then it was time for Chatsworth. Oh. My. Giddy. Aunt. It was HUGE. I'm talking GIGANTIC. Bigger than Buckingham Palace for sure and the grounds were more extensive than Windsor Castle. As for interiors... Well it definitely put Windsor to shame and is most assuredly the REAL Pemberley. Most of the ceilings and walls are painted in murals, there are priceless pieces of art everywhere. Even the lamps are ornate sculptures. The gardens went on and on for literally miles. There was proper landscaped gardens and then lots of 'woodland' that had pathways and waterfalls and grottos throughout. It was just jawdropping. We spent 5 hours wandering around. Highlights include the veiled lady sculpture, the check floor foyer, the cascade, the pasty made from beef and veg from the estate and seeing pheasants around every corner. We of course had to have a scone at Chatsworth - made from eggs from the estate. It was just out of this world. There is no way anyone could build it today. And really, not overly expensive compared to other places we have been. Parking was 2 quid for as long as you liked and to get into the hosue was 11 for me, 13 for mum? or there-abouts. Considering the extent of the house and gardens it was definitely worth it! I took 180 photos just at Chatsworth because there was that much to see!


Ok, have another break guys. I will update you on the rest tomorrow.
peace and love from Cornwall (currently overlooking a SURF beach on the Northern Coast of Cornwall. Lovely.

Whoops I appear to have missed Ireland...

Ok, so I realise I am not very good at this keeping the blog updated thing.
But. Here I am so off we go:


Ireland was... wonderful.
So beautiful. I can't believe I actually got sick of the beauty... but it was just gorgeous countryside followed by gorgeous coast line and after navigating for my darling mother for a week and getting the flu I was less than keen on the gorgeous scenery.

Dublin was probably my favourite, followed by Galway. The Cliffs of Moher were pretty specky, even with the ridiculous people jumping over fences. Enviro police Steph wanted to punch some people there. Them and those who litter... EVERYWHERE. At Blarney Castle and people just throw down their ice cream cups in a ruin. But I digress.

Trinity College was just as a university should be. Big, full of knowledge - a little bit stuck up and full of gorgeous Irishmen.

Our historical walking tour around Dublin was simply wonderful. Not least for the insanely attractive guide we had. Thank you google for allowing me to stalk :) We did soooo much walking. But ended with a yummy irish stew and Aussie red wine in a pub. Dublin was COLD and WET (actually, all of Ireland was come to think of it). But that's why it's so green I suppose. The book of Kells didn't do much for me, but I am not a big religious text type of person. The old library with its 65m 'long room' filled to bursting with books did leave me salivating rather a tad though.

Interesting fact - many sheep over here have tails.

After Dublin we drove down to Wexford (delicious strawberries - cold), Waterford (the crystal place was shut and it was uber busy) and the Middleton (the Jameison distillery - tours had finished. Our entire trip has been the go somewhere that says it is open to discover it is closed. Cheap though) and into Cork. Where the hostel had lost our booking. But one of the hostel staff just popped out the back and checked to see if the b&b there had any space. So we stayed with a very Catholic little old lady in a lovely quiet quiet house. Then back to the hostel for our second night. We wandered off to Blarney Castle where I kissed the stone. I of all people probably do not need the gift of the gab but oh well. Bit more can't hurt? We had a bit of a look around Cork but (As usual) not much was open. Then it was up to Mallow to see where Grandad was born and the Murphy spotting began (many in Cork as well actually) we are a diverse bunch ranging from 'gentleman's outfitter' (read:clothes shop) bar, pub, beer, real estate agent, to ice cream. after leaving Mallow we headed up through Limerick and King John's castle (as in rotten Prince John, Sheriff of Nottingham King John) then onto Galway! First up through the Cliffs of Moher and the gorgeous coastal drive. The roads are a tad to skinny for my liking... but Great Ocean Road eat your heart out - Mum tells me it was rather like parts of the Western Australian coast, lots of sheer cliffs where the ocean smashes into the land. We got a perfect afternoon after a very wet and dreery mornign so it was a really great drive.

In Galway we stayed in a lovely hostel called Kinley House, I thoroughly recommend it to anyone. After a very tiring day we collapsed into bed but were up early to explore a very pretty and functionally designed (take note Belfast!) city. We headed out to Claddagh which is now just a port pretty much. An interesting part of the city though because it was a seperate sovereign city/state type of thing til their last king died in 1972! We went to Thomas Dillion Jewellers who have been making the Claddagh ring since 1750 (same family), the oldest in Ireland. Also the least tacky. the number of Claddagh rings with birthstones and diamontes and bleurgh. So I got myself a nice silver ring and mum splashed out on a rose gold one. Thomas Dillion are the only jewellers are allowed to use the official claddagh stamp so it was pretty special. Then we went out to Thoor Ballylee (Yeats!) and it was shut - it got flooded out during the melt and still hasn't been fixed. But still, it was the Tower and was in a gorgeous spot. Poetic in fact... Then we nipped over to Coole Park (yes Lady Gregory) and wandered around the 7 Woods there. It was lovely. We were hoping to see a Badger or a Squirrel or something but alas no. Although, in terms of wildlife in Ireland we did see a pheasant (just grooving about on the side of the highway - many more pheasants are to come though. Stay tuned for Chatsworth), a whole heap of sheep and lambs and cows and calves, swans and three badgers... dead on the side of the road which was very sad. But back to Coole Park - I went down to the lake to attempt to see 9 and 50 swans... I saw 1 duck. Not quite the stuff of poetic legend but I'll work on it. Had some lovely fresh fish and chips in Galway at a fish and chip shop that's been going since 1902!

We then had our loooooooong drive up to Derry (yeah that's right. Derry. I'm a republican and proud... except when walking around the areas in Derry that are painted red, white and blue with English flags everywhere...) we checked out Glencar waterfall along the way and stopped at Donegal (Donegal tweed that is) and took the advice of a very very helpful tourist information lady and headed over to the upper west coast to Carrick and the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Like the Cliffs of Moher, but bigger and no tourists there at all. We had to trek up the mountain to get there but they were just so amazing. The mist was coming in over them and there were sheep with their lambs everywhere. By the time we got to Derry we were stuffed. But thanks to my amazing navigational skills we didn't take a single wrong turn. Going into Derry was weird! In the middle of the highway it switches from km to miles! All the signs went from being in Gaelic and English to just English. Which is weird, because there is a huge Irish prescence throughout the town and many shops have Irish names. Plus in the real UK, they let the Welsh have everything in Welsh and English but the loyalists want so badly to British they just won't let the Irish in at all. Derry itself was a really nice town but a bit surreal to walk around. Especially down around Rossville St in Bogside - where Bloody Sunday happened. Then you walk across over the walls and see murals stating that the Loyalists are under seige... all very odd. Makes you really appreciate how safe and unracist australia is. We have our moments but generally we just wouldn't tolerate an entire religion being maligned.

As we were leaving Derry to go up to the Giants Causeway, we did the clutch in the car. So it was a 2 hour wait for a tow truck driver and then a new peugot (ooooooh la la!) for us. Which was very nice. So off we went to the Giants Causeway and Carrick-a-raede rope bridge. Another 7/8 km of walking. Again pretty amazing. Nature is truly spectacular sometimes. Hard to describe the causeway, sort of looks like great big honeycomb sections... but rock. It's really hard to believe that it wasn't all cut out by people. Then it was a long drive down to Belfast and the RIDICULOUS roads they have there. Galway have a one way system that allows the traffic to flow, but doesn't stop you getting anywhere. Belfast's is nuts and doesn't make any sense at all. I nearly had a nervous breakdown with the map in Belfast. The hostel was a bit crap too. Really loud room so didn't get a wink of sleep. Then we got to jump on a ferry and head to Scotland!

But I will give you a break now and put up our Scottish/English/Welsh adventures in a new post.

Please go get a cuppa, a biscuit and possibly some no-doze during this short intermission.